Saturday, March 14, 2015

Knowing and Uchawi

            It only recently came to my attention what a powerful sway local beliefs surrounding magic, or uchawi, have in my village; I think, in a large part, this is because my neighbors are very aware that outsiders view witchcraft as backwards and primitive. They know it’s seen as a detriment to Development, the chief goal of Tanzania’s leaders and western nations that use diplomacy, economics, and aid to direct the Tanzanian policy. Yet, uchawi is still a very strong component of people’s lives.
            Students have told me that they can’t start a business in town because the uchawi won’t allow it. Witch doctors are said to use magic to collect debts and people wear amulets made from Chinese coins to cure illnesses. Of course, this foreignness can strike an Americans as silly. We chuckle when we are told past ventures have failed due to magic, not because of a complete lack of business skills and planning. However, this post isn’t supposed to highlight something backwards or, *cringe*, primitive. Actually, I think it highlights many flaws in western thought.
 I personally find the way my neighbors live refreshing; there’s no western self-delusion of knowing or certainty (the kind that makes us individualistic and confident but can also be used to rationalize terrible things, such as depleting the planet’s resources and enslaving entire continents). People here recognize that they don’t know that much, something we could all stand to do more of,  and act according to their experiences, the resources available to them, and what they see as effective. Uchawi is the unknowable, and Tanzanians give it a more healthy reverence. We, westerners, claim to know things and live by facts, scientific principles, laws of economics, and political systems, for example, but most of us would be hard pressed to really explain them. We constantly put our faith in things we understand only elementarily; we trust things we don’t know because someone says they can and are understood, beyond our comprehension. The only difference our ideologies have from uchawi is someone claims to understand them, that they are not, by definition, mysterious and apart.
A reoccurring point in Paul Farmer’s anthropological and medical work is that people in Haiti accept what they need to survive, be it western medical treatment or voodoo. Neither is a hindrance to the other, they are just two ways of people trying to reduce suffering and make sense of life; people adopt what works. Why should we ask a rural Tanzanian to live life by the scientific method, when a life of observation and, we would say non-rigorous, experimentation has lead them to conclude uchawi is the answer?
When I hear development workers anguishing over Tanzanians’ inability or hesitance to adopt free market practices, I want them to understand that those practices aren’t widely adopted because, hey, maybe they don’t work in Tanzanian society. Westerners quickly dismiss uchawi because of its ineffectiveness but keep on zealously pursuing neoliberal market reforms despite the absence of predicted outcomes. Imagine Larry Summers, the medicine man.
My experiences in Tanzania have lead me to ask a lot of questions: Do we want a world order that has been designed by a small, elite portion of the population? Opinions will vary. How about if we know these same people are responsible, actively or complacently, for incredible suffering, environmental degradation, human exploitation, and murder in the name of ideals? If development has been going on for fifty or more years and all we see are failed attempts to implement the same flawed and incompatible systems and ideas, are these development goals actually legitimate? I’ve come to the conclusion that we’re fooling ourselves; which, to be fair, I think is the fate of humanity; although maybe not the fate of individuals.
At the core of these problems in development and cross-cultural understanding, I see the flawed western dedication to knowledge. This rejection of knowledge may seem a little strange coming from someone who studied and teaches chemistry but I think one of the best lessons of science is the adamant dedication to skepticism and rejection of dogmatism. Basic limitations in human knowledge and experience should garner respect for the unknowable universe we live in. Some of the greatest scientific understandings of the twentieth century, the uncertainty principle, quantum mechanics, and complimentarity, are based on acceptance of our ability to have absolute knowledge. To best understand the behavior of matter at a subatomic scale we have to accept the boundaries to our knowledge and visualization. Is it a coincidence that one of the theory’s founders and greatest proponents, Neils Bohr, also happened to ponder the duality of Kierkegaard? I don’t think so; in fact, I think the philosophical and the scientific are inseparable. One of the basest human instincts is to try and find am unknowable meaning; with the odds stacked against us, we should go at it every way we can.
Yet, in many instances, science has been used to humanize a very inhuman universe, shrinking trillions of years of entropic perpetuation and chemical perturbations into a system comprehensible on a human scale. We learn to adapt to our environment through observation, but we have committed many mistakes through the self delusion of knowledge. Our certainty in human understanding has created a world where food production is dependent on petroleum (the distant memory of our everyday friend, the sun) and resource extraction instead of nature’s self-perpetuating bounty. What’s more, we allow human constructs like capitalism and religion to be taken as natural laws and are not satisfied until everything we perceive is dissected, every little part understood.
            How do I now see science in my life? It’s a way out of complacency, driving humans to think honestly with an understanding of our limitations. We could all do well to remember that science in its purest form is anti-intellectual; to observe, not suppose. Humankind’s drive to dream is what brings it back into the intellectual realm. One of the most scientific Tanzanian’s I know told me he saw a man, mocking his university education, turn a rope into a snake. He saw it and he believed it. Try telling Mosley his spectra were an illusion! He did what every great scientist has done; he saw an unexpected phenomena, he evaluated it based on his incomplete understanding of the physical world, and, thanks to Bohr’s theoretical work and guidance, saw something that was more or less magic at the time: a complete collapse of Newtonian dogma, the quanta of a nuclear world. He was fortunately in an environment to replicate his observations. Now where’s that man with the rope?
            As a human being, I’m torn because I love and respect the glory of being a self aware, curious individual but also recognize the unnatural and skewed world that our intellect has lead us to create. Navigating this paradox, like so many others, is one of life’s challenges. Ultimately, I think the only way forward is to embrace every beautiful facet of reality in our perception, recognize our abject puniness, and go forward cautious of our hubris and, not paralytically, cynical. I.e. Let’s be more Vonnegut, less Old Testament. This isn’t to say we shouldn’t act with conviction, to achieve anything we must, but let’s try not getting carried away this time.
So, do I mock uchawi and a Tanzanian culture that can appear lazy and unmotivated? No. In some ways, it’s more truthful than the cultures that would criticize it. I will mock any system that refuses to respect the legitimacy of nature, holds fast to human dogmatism, and allows the human miracle of perception and self knowing to harm the world it draws from. 

Thursday, February 26, 2015

Catching Up, Again

Building Fuel Efficient Cook-stoves With My Neighbor




Finished Compost


The Scorpion That Stung Me


My Best Friend's Cashew Farm and Cashew Wine



School Tank Project



Teaching Cook-stoves to The New Education Class


Sunday, November 2, 2014

Long Time No See


The $5 Mud-Oven


Laying down the base in my storeroom; bought the homemade bricks from my mason friend


Mixing the clay in my backyard. My village bros made fun of me for using my feet on such a small amount of soil. Apparently, I was supposed to punch it.


The finished base. The ratio of clay-to-sand was too high so it kept cracking. 


Shaped the oven dome using wet sand and covered it with mixed dirt. 


The finished oven. Still learning how to fire it but I see pizza in my future.

Day-to-Day


My punishment for being late to Eid: being sent home with an insane amount of coconut rice.


My FEMA club cleaned up the library! It was closed for a long time but now it's entirely student run and open five nights a week. 


The scorpion that stung me. Always shake out your shirts.


Cashew-apple wine on my neighbor's cashew farm.


My best friend and his family.


Composting for rainy-season.


Beach house.

 The Kiuta Rainwater Catchment Tank Project


Announcing the grant at a parents' meeting.


Construction begins


Starting materials.


Construction is underway! OSHA would approve.


One tank down, one to go.

FEMA Club Graduation


Saying a few words to my Form IV FEMA club members. Minds were blown by the banana bread.


My excellent students. I can't describe how thankful I am to work with such good kids :)


Funny picture.







Monday, July 28, 2014

The Holiday Season


One of the things I will miss most about Tanzania is the call to prayer. One of my first memories of homestay in Korogwe is practically sprinting out of bed at 5:30 am as a result of the neighboring mosque blasting quranic recitations. Even my village, which is entirely off the power grid, manages to broadcast every call via an old school PA system (imagine the air raid sirens from a Cold War propaganda film and you have the right idea). Now, I mostly sleep through the morning call. 

It’s a glorious thing to hear the call to prayer in Dar Es Salaam at sunset. There you are, sitting on a balcony, chatting about the inexhaustible topics of one’s youth and future while families play on their roofs and the silhouettes of evening’s first bats flash across the sky. Out of the labyrinthine city the first call to prayer rises, only to be joined by the staggered emergence of its fellows, the melodic Arabic swelling together before slipping back into the city’s unending sounds. It may be one of the few moments that can make a twenty-something stop thinking about himself.

Calls to prayer only get more frequent and earnest during the month of Ramadan, which carries a strange significance for me; it marks my first whole year in country. I’ll try not to dwell on an arbitrary milestone too much but I will say that, while the first year went so fast, the next fifteen months appear particularly gargantuan. Truthfully, I’m scared shitless. Like many things in my service, I can’t seem to resolve two conflicting feelings; at once, I feel like I’ve done nothing meaningful over the last year, so now I have to really kick it into gear, yet there’s so much time I shouldn’t sweat it. Truthfully: shitless.

Back to Ramadan, I love getting the feel of another religion and the ebb and flow of their lives. You start to notice things like how, although not as religious as it once was, America’s calendar revolves entirely around Christian holy days. The Islam I’m being exposed to is on such a local and independent scale, I also get to learn about the faith while avoiding all the institutional and political manipulations that taint all major religions. In a world of spreading violent, political Islamist groups, like Al-Shabab and Boka Haram in neighboring Kenya and Uganda, respectively, this opportunity strikes me as invaluable.

On a personal level, when I talk to people about their faith I enjoy get to peek through a little window to what they most value. Recently, the conclusion of Ramadan has granted me many opportunities to have this discussion. The end of Ramadan is a major Muslim holy day, called Eid Al-Fitr, which follows the siting of a new moon; part of the anticipation leading up to the holiday is that no-one knows when exactly it will be, so we all watch the night sky, hoping to catch a glimpse of the full moon.

The person I most enjoy talking to about Islam, and any subject in general, with is my babu. To him, Eid (as in need) is about charity and respecting all people as human beings; it’s a time to feed the poor, cast aside avarice (uchoyo), and recognize our shared humanity. After discussing the local customs of Id and his feelings on the holiday season, the sun set and I was invited inside their roofless, door-less home to sit with the family on their mkeka (a reed mat) and break the fast. Although everyone in my village knows I don’t fasting, I was a little tentative to take food from people who were eating their first meal of the day. After the meal, my babu turned to me and said, “There is nothing better than eating this meal with a non-muslim who is not fasting. Alhamdulilah.”

I have been affected by many things in my Peace Corps service and few things have struck me as much as my neighbors’ kindness and generosity, even in the face of destitution and poverty.  If I bring only one thing back to America, I hope it’s some shadow of the selflessness I’ve come to know in Kiuta. In America, a society of competition, isolation, and self-reliance, this lesson is particularly pertinent: never are we more humble and connected than when we are giving away ourselves.
P.S. Few things are more unsettling than being taken to a locked shead to look at a mystery animal. Apparently Sungura is rabit.

Monday, April 28, 2014

World Malaria Day

             In his book Better, Atul Gawande says “When you make an effort, you find sometimes you are not the only one willing to do so.” I have had the good fortune to recurrently experience this insight during my service and, in today’s blog post, I’d like to talk about a foremost example, my school’s World Malaria Day event.
Malaria is endemic in Tanzania; half of the nation’s population is affected. Every five minutes, one Tanzanian dies of malaria, with the majority of deaths coming from the especially at risk group of children. Not only is Malaria is the #1 child killer in Tanzania, 1 in 5 children under five years old die of malaria related diseases. Statistics aside, probably the most harrowing experience I’ve had in Tanzania occurred when my youngest homestay sister, Swadia, contracted malaria. I had only been in country for a month, so I did not know the grim outlook for any Tanzanian child with malaria but, at the time, I was certain she was going to die. Because Swadia was so young and I was just learning Kiswahili we had to manage a different system of communication. Mostly, we communicated through smiles; hers was one of the most heart-stoppingly beautiful things I have had the privilege to witness. When Swadia had malaria, not only were there no smiles, she was too ill to stand or feed herself. Combine that with her inability to keep down fluids and Swadia was only getting worse. Seeing a child in such pain is heartbreaking and, looking back at my journal, my uncertainty and inaction racked my conscience. Luckily, my homestay family was well-off and recognized the need to hospitalize Swaiba; after a four day hospital stay, Swadia recovered. Most Tanzanian children aren’t so lucky.
Even if I’m rarely exposed to the lethality of the disease, malaria’s toll is something I see daily. Teachers and students frequently miss school because “wanaumwa malaria kidogo” (they’re just a little sick with malaria) and my neighbors have been hospitalized because they let their malaria progress unchecked and untreated. The frequency of hospitalizations, prevalence of mosquitoes, and bi-weekly discussions of “who has malaria” are constant reminders of the looming specter malaria imposes on my community.
So, it was my pleasure this past Friday to discover the enthusiasm with which my school tackled World Malaria Day. For me to take any credit for the event, beyond simple initiation and organization, would be disingenuous; my colleagues all took it upon themselves to understand and perform their roles as teachers exceptionally and my students were active and engaged participants throughout the day. The fact that all of them put up with my organizational skills speaks to the enthusiasm they showed towards the program.
Kiuta's teachers and students during the parade


The day started at Kiuta Day Secondary School, with an introduction about the global and national impact of Malaria. Students and teachers then signed posters proclaiming, “We are fighting to Stomp Out Malaria,” which the school then used while parading and chanting anti-malaria slogans through Kiuta Village. The students set off at a jog and would have continued all the way to neighboring Mkunya if I didn’t sprint up to the front of the procession. It could have used a drum major.
One of my Form IV students pledging to "Stomp Out Malaria!"

PARADE!
For the day’s main educational activities, students were split into four equal-sized groups which rotated through four teacher-run stations. By the end of the day, every student went to a 25 minute session that:

  • used a game (sharks-and-minnows, meet bed nets-and-mosquitoes) to detail the importance of bed net use and the impact self-protection has on community malaria risk
Form I students learning about bed nets
  • featured a bed net demonstration and discussion on the lifecycle of the malaria parasite
Form I loved the bed net demonstration
  • recorded statistics of student malaria prevention compliance and emphasized the active role students must take to prevent malaria
  • used student input to dispel local misconceptions about malaria.

The main points of each session were recorded on poster papers that will be hung in the students’ classrooms so the day’s primary educational points can persist.
At the end of the day, I presented the school with three new footballs in thanks for their support for and hard work in malaria education. After the students went home for lunch and Friday prayers (Ijuma being the Muslim holy day), we celebrated a successful day by having a soccer match with our newly acquired balls. Somewhere, the Good Year Blimp expounded Ice Cube's virility.

Malaria Haikubaliki
The day was, in my opinion, a great success; however, I can’t help but be honest. Will this World Malaria Day event truly affect my community’s behavior? I have my doubts. Sometimes, I fear that education is much less effective at changing behavior than many of us would care to recognize and the necessary convenience that leads to behavior change will be borne by still far-off development. Then again, my doubts aren’t strong enough to stop me from trying. Also, minimal results probably speak more to my and other responsible parties’ failure to properly educate than the virtues of effective education.
What I’m trying to convey is that, like all of my experiences in Peace Corps, World Malaria Day left me feeling hopeful, just a little uncertain, and incredibly thankful. While I believe my students and colleagues got something out of the day’s activities, I know I benefitted tremendously from this experience and can’t stress how thankful I am to everyone who helped make this event happen: the community of Kiuta Secondary School, John Hopkins University’s malaria program, my Aunt Barbara and Uncle Tony (thanks for the soccer balls!), Peace Corps Tanzania, and the PCVs that created and provided the materials I used in designing my program (thanks for the hook up Deirdre!).

For more information on Peace Corps' Malaria initiative, check out this blurb: "Stomping Out Malaria in Africa is a Peace Corps initiative that uses strategic partnerships, targeted training of Volunteers and intelligent use of information technology to support the local malaria prevention efforts of over 3,000 Volunteers in sub-Saharan Africa. For more information go to stompoutmalaria.org and follow Stomp activities at http://www.facebook.com/StompOutMalaria."
“How will you Stomp Out Malaria in 2014?”











Tuesday, April 15, 2014

Rainy Season

Rainy season in Kiuta is an interesting thing. When I first arrived in September, which is the middle of the dry season, the first word I would use to describe my site is "red." All the plants were dead and everything was covered with a rust-red dust; if you opened the window of the Japanese Kindergarten bus you were taking down Mtwara's ever-present dirt roads, you would not only step off the bus feeling like you spent the last four hours in a blender but you would also acquire the pallor of a bad spray-on tan, courtesy of the dust.
But now, the Monsoon Rains are here and they are awesome in the original sense of the word; they put you in your place. The muddy red roads have become overhung by the vibrant green, encroaching bush and my nights are filled with the soothing sound of torrential downpours hitting my sheet metal roof; with time, a sound I once associated with The End of Days has become cozy. My mornings are still in the low nineties and sunny but by around four or five pm, conveniently after school ends, the thunder starts and the heavens open.
Everything becomes more isolated with the rains as well. Suddenly, the 12 km to town you used to travel in the back of a flatbed truck become an insurmountable boundary. Bajajis that used to take you to town now refuse to make the drive out to your school. The rainy season makes me appreciate my neighbors. Nothing is more comforting then, when I'm stuck in the village on a rainy afternoon, crouching around a wood fire while my bibi tells me about the good old days of carrying gargantuan clay jugs of water on her head and my babu tells me about his legendary days as the village's best bao (a game kind of like mankala that is always played by young men in the shade of a tree by the main road) player; after I asked "why don't you play anymore," he looked at the space just above my right shoulder, paused, and yelled "because now I'm blind!" We all thought this was exceedingly funny.
Sure the afternoons spent staring at the mouldy ceiling boards while rats dance in your crawl space and the rain sounds like two Boeings taking off in your head can make me question why I'm here. But, when I know the price of being content is getting a little wet and smelling like a campfire, there's really no excuse for getting too down.

Thursday, March 20, 2014

Pictures, Again

Pictures from December to now!

 My mango wine. Damn good.
 The Home Office
 Thug Lyfe. Also the students who helped me build my garden.
 Zanzibar from the ferry.
 Local Watermelon
 Roasting coffee. $3.13 for a kilo of coffee. Can't beat it!
 Science Club victors! (and me)
 What a peanut plant looks like (from the struggling garden)
Local Cucumber. Brings to mind one word better left unsaid.