Sunday, February 23, 2014

The Love Letter

An American poet once said, “No one’s fated or doomed to love anyone. The accidents happen…” Born two worlds apart and together for only a moment, she must be correct.
It started when you got on the lorry. What first caught my attention was the way you hosted the jembe across your shoulders, cool and coy like David poised with his sling, confident in your body and the implements  that were its natural extension.  I was sitting in the bus stand and, while I couldn’t see your face, I was struck by your back; thick knots of muscle wrapped tight around your neck and shoulders, a thin layer of sweat made the sunlight dance through dark peaks and valleys.
And then your kanga fell. I’ve always doubted the truth of love at first sight; it seemed like something people say after memory has buffed details and re-plaster reality. How can you love someone you don’t know? Aren’t you just fooling yourself into loving what they represent? What does it mean to love an idea? All I know is that the moment you stood bare breasted, unblinking as your young daughter retied your billowing shawl in the back of a departing flatbed, it was love.
So, I’m in love with you, or maybe the idea of you, or maybe the moment you inhabited the canvas on which I painted love. Whatever it was, it was found and lost in a dusty, Tanzanian bus stand.

Forever yours,

A broken fool

Sunday, February 2, 2014

Critter Entry Part II: Meat

As someone who has never before purposefully killed an animal, I always thought taking something’s life would be a profound moment. Hearing bones pop and crack, the gurgle of blood, my first slaughter would be Homeric. Grown men would collapse weeping in the streets of Troy and my inner, primal spirit would be sated by the ferric stench of life-blood and the warm humidity of a quickly fleeing life. With Ares’ demands met, I would walk away with some new insight, perhaps on the tragedy of life and death; something, at least, to make me appear profound at a cocktail party or over drinks. Instead, my experience was fairly underwhelming and gave me a sense of how naturally killing comes to humans. No adrenaline rush, no glorious high: just a dead rat and a poorly chosen stick.
Walking by my Mkuu’s (head of school’s) house one sunny afternoon, I noticed him standing out front holding, what in Tanzania can only properly be called, a child-beating stick or fimbo. Around him, his two sons, also armed with sticks, were unpacking and moving boxes. After exchanging greetings, my Mkuu declared “we are at war,” pointing his stick at a pile of five or six dead rats. In the midst of processing my first pile of bludgeoned rats, I was snapped back to reality by the command, “quick, grab a stick, there’s one more in this box.” Knowing what I know now, in my rushed call-to-arms, I grabbed a fairly impotent stick; lacking the bend that allows a good fimbo to flatten most of its length against the ground and thereby cover more area, my rigid, heavy Excalibur’s point of impact was limited to just the tip (ha!). As the rat was released into the yard and the chase began, we were joined by  Mama Gulam, who rushed out of the house wielding what, in any culture, can only be described as a club.
Rats, I learned, are sprinters. They start fast, engaging in acrobatic acts of evasion and escape in tight quarters, but tire quickly in the open, making easy targets. Diving exhausted from a tree, the rat met its final moments in a bed of leaves, the killing blow offered to an incompetent and frightened man-child: me. My long fantasized moment of triumph sounded exactly the same as the many times, in my ineptitude, I struck only leaves. It was not poetic.
Allow me a brief discussion of animal-human relations in Tanzania. Killing pests is part of the daily routine and people do it with a smile or a shrug. Grandmas are exceptionally skilled at clubbing rats to death and the proudest I’ve ever seen my Mkuu’s son, Gulam, was when he killed a rat with a brick; he then asked if we should give it the de-worming medicine his family gave their chickens. Additionally, pets are not part of the cultural practice in Tanzania; hence, all animals are seen as objects. They are manhandled, killed, and exclusively seen as a means to an end. The transition from animals to food is also much more visible than in America. As in, you see it. Chickens, goats, ducks, and cows patrol the neighborhoods during the day, scrounging for edible garbage thrown outside of homes, only to return at night to be slaughtered and eaten. Children are assigned to kill and dress chickens. Your local butcher shop consists of the still furred hindquarters of cattle suspended from meat hooks, a tree stump, a scale, and a knife; cuts of meat are not a thing here, so your kilo comes is rendered through indiscriminate hacking through bone and flesh. No matter how hard I try, the sound of the butcher’s makes me flinch. Tanzanians don’t.
As an omnivore and American, it’s refreshing to be made aware of the source of meats’ and the requirements of raising livestock; here it’s hard to forget how much work people put into an animal before they put it into themselves. For example, the resources that go into meat production are much more tangible when you observe the amount of water a cow can put away during a drought. In America, we never see our meat being tortured and grown at a freakish pace before we eat it, and we remove any vestige of life- a head, tail, or even bones- from our flesh abstractions. This isn't making any value judgment and, like most things that are kind of fucked up about America, I've come to miss it; say what you want about the proper treatment of animals and conscious eating, because I know you will, but a person only needs to see a disembodied goat head being hand-washed in a plastic bucket or a rooster being decapitated with a too-dull knife only a finite number of times before asking, “can a robot do that inhumanely?”
Sorry for my discursion, now back to m’stories. This final episode involves myself and a mouse. For reasons to numerous and too petty to get into, this mouse had become my white whale. It had evaded my broom one too many times and, instead of taking my leg, it was pooping all over my kitchen and chewing the lids off of my oil jugs. After drinking its fill, based on the position of the bottles and level of oil in the morning, I’m certain it hopped in and did victory laps. Finally, as my visiting friend Deirdre and I were enjoying chocolate cake and ginger tea in my courtyard, she saw the mouse run into my shower (which, in my house is a concrete floored room with a hole). Grabbing my stick and flinging open the door, I fell upon the mouse. For a brief period, I became Ahab, Samson, Death, and old-testament God and that pitiful mouse was an amalgamation of the mask, the philistines, life, and Sodom. Full of rage, I struck that mouse down, shouting obscenities in what, knowing myself, could only have been a very high-pitched and unmanly voice. Presented with the killing blow, I brought the stick down and, in contrast with the din of my broomstick hitting concrete floor, produced an organic thud, not unlike the sound of someone getting struck with a baseball.

So there Deirdre and I were, stuck with the task of awkwardly rolling the limp mouse’s corpse out of my courtyard. Watching its ragdoll body tumble and flop over the uneven pavement, I couldn't help but see the moue in two lights. In one, tinted by my rage and prideful victory, it was Hektor, shamefully being dragged behind my chariot, an empty vessel paying the price for combat and life’s passion for killing. But, in the other, shaded by sadness, it was the innocent and natural Petrokolis, reminding us of the regret in every death and the cost of every life taken.