Sunday, November 2, 2014

Long Time No See


The $5 Mud-Oven


Laying down the base in my storeroom; bought the homemade bricks from my mason friend


Mixing the clay in my backyard. My village bros made fun of me for using my feet on such a small amount of soil. Apparently, I was supposed to punch it.


The finished base. The ratio of clay-to-sand was too high so it kept cracking. 


Shaped the oven dome using wet sand and covered it with mixed dirt. 


The finished oven. Still learning how to fire it but I see pizza in my future.

Day-to-Day


My punishment for being late to Eid: being sent home with an insane amount of coconut rice.


My FEMA club cleaned up the library! It was closed for a long time but now it's entirely student run and open five nights a week. 


The scorpion that stung me. Always shake out your shirts.


Cashew-apple wine on my neighbor's cashew farm.


My best friend and his family.


Composting for rainy-season.


Beach house.

 The Kiuta Rainwater Catchment Tank Project


Announcing the grant at a parents' meeting.


Construction begins


Starting materials.


Construction is underway! OSHA would approve.


One tank down, one to go.

FEMA Club Graduation


Saying a few words to my Form IV FEMA club members. Minds were blown by the banana bread.


My excellent students. I can't describe how thankful I am to work with such good kids :)


Funny picture.







Monday, July 28, 2014

The Holiday Season


One of the things I will miss most about Tanzania is the call to prayer. One of my first memories of homestay in Korogwe is practically sprinting out of bed at 5:30 am as a result of the neighboring mosque blasting quranic recitations. Even my village, which is entirely off the power grid, manages to broadcast every call via an old school PA system (imagine the air raid sirens from a Cold War propaganda film and you have the right idea). Now, I mostly sleep through the morning call. 

It’s a glorious thing to hear the call to prayer in Dar Es Salaam at sunset. There you are, sitting on a balcony, chatting about the inexhaustible topics of one’s youth and future while families play on their roofs and the silhouettes of evening’s first bats flash across the sky. Out of the labyrinthine city the first call to prayer rises, only to be joined by the staggered emergence of its fellows, the melodic Arabic swelling together before slipping back into the city’s unending sounds. It may be one of the few moments that can make a twenty-something stop thinking about himself.

Calls to prayer only get more frequent and earnest during the month of Ramadan, which carries a strange significance for me; it marks my first whole year in country. I’ll try not to dwell on an arbitrary milestone too much but I will say that, while the first year went so fast, the next fifteen months appear particularly gargantuan. Truthfully, I’m scared shitless. Like many things in my service, I can’t seem to resolve two conflicting feelings; at once, I feel like I’ve done nothing meaningful over the last year, so now I have to really kick it into gear, yet there’s so much time I shouldn’t sweat it. Truthfully: shitless.

Back to Ramadan, I love getting the feel of another religion and the ebb and flow of their lives. You start to notice things like how, although not as religious as it once was, America’s calendar revolves entirely around Christian holy days. The Islam I’m being exposed to is on such a local and independent scale, I also get to learn about the faith while avoiding all the institutional and political manipulations that taint all major religions. In a world of spreading violent, political Islamist groups, like Al-Shabab and Boka Haram in neighboring Kenya and Uganda, respectively, this opportunity strikes me as invaluable.

On a personal level, when I talk to people about their faith I enjoy get to peek through a little window to what they most value. Recently, the conclusion of Ramadan has granted me many opportunities to have this discussion. The end of Ramadan is a major Muslim holy day, called Eid Al-Fitr, which follows the siting of a new moon; part of the anticipation leading up to the holiday is that no-one knows when exactly it will be, so we all watch the night sky, hoping to catch a glimpse of the full moon.

The person I most enjoy talking to about Islam, and any subject in general, with is my babu. To him, Eid (as in need) is about charity and respecting all people as human beings; it’s a time to feed the poor, cast aside avarice (uchoyo), and recognize our shared humanity. After discussing the local customs of Id and his feelings on the holiday season, the sun set and I was invited inside their roofless, door-less home to sit with the family on their mkeka (a reed mat) and break the fast. Although everyone in my village knows I don’t fasting, I was a little tentative to take food from people who were eating their first meal of the day. After the meal, my babu turned to me and said, “There is nothing better than eating this meal with a non-muslim who is not fasting. Alhamdulilah.”

I have been affected by many things in my Peace Corps service and few things have struck me as much as my neighbors’ kindness and generosity, even in the face of destitution and poverty.  If I bring only one thing back to America, I hope it’s some shadow of the selflessness I’ve come to know in Kiuta. In America, a society of competition, isolation, and self-reliance, this lesson is particularly pertinent: never are we more humble and connected than when we are giving away ourselves.
P.S. Few things are more unsettling than being taken to a locked shead to look at a mystery animal. Apparently Sungura is rabit.

Monday, April 28, 2014

World Malaria Day

             In his book Better, Atul Gawande says “When you make an effort, you find sometimes you are not the only one willing to do so.” I have had the good fortune to recurrently experience this insight during my service and, in today’s blog post, I’d like to talk about a foremost example, my school’s World Malaria Day event.
Malaria is endemic in Tanzania; half of the nation’s population is affected. Every five minutes, one Tanzanian dies of malaria, with the majority of deaths coming from the especially at risk group of children. Not only is Malaria is the #1 child killer in Tanzania, 1 in 5 children under five years old die of malaria related diseases. Statistics aside, probably the most harrowing experience I’ve had in Tanzania occurred when my youngest homestay sister, Swadia, contracted malaria. I had only been in country for a month, so I did not know the grim outlook for any Tanzanian child with malaria but, at the time, I was certain she was going to die. Because Swadia was so young and I was just learning Kiswahili we had to manage a different system of communication. Mostly, we communicated through smiles; hers was one of the most heart-stoppingly beautiful things I have had the privilege to witness. When Swadia had malaria, not only were there no smiles, she was too ill to stand or feed herself. Combine that with her inability to keep down fluids and Swadia was only getting worse. Seeing a child in such pain is heartbreaking and, looking back at my journal, my uncertainty and inaction racked my conscience. Luckily, my homestay family was well-off and recognized the need to hospitalize Swaiba; after a four day hospital stay, Swadia recovered. Most Tanzanian children aren’t so lucky.
Even if I’m rarely exposed to the lethality of the disease, malaria’s toll is something I see daily. Teachers and students frequently miss school because “wanaumwa malaria kidogo” (they’re just a little sick with malaria) and my neighbors have been hospitalized because they let their malaria progress unchecked and untreated. The frequency of hospitalizations, prevalence of mosquitoes, and bi-weekly discussions of “who has malaria” are constant reminders of the looming specter malaria imposes on my community.
So, it was my pleasure this past Friday to discover the enthusiasm with which my school tackled World Malaria Day. For me to take any credit for the event, beyond simple initiation and organization, would be disingenuous; my colleagues all took it upon themselves to understand and perform their roles as teachers exceptionally and my students were active and engaged participants throughout the day. The fact that all of them put up with my organizational skills speaks to the enthusiasm they showed towards the program.
Kiuta's teachers and students during the parade


The day started at Kiuta Day Secondary School, with an introduction about the global and national impact of Malaria. Students and teachers then signed posters proclaiming, “We are fighting to Stomp Out Malaria,” which the school then used while parading and chanting anti-malaria slogans through Kiuta Village. The students set off at a jog and would have continued all the way to neighboring Mkunya if I didn’t sprint up to the front of the procession. It could have used a drum major.
One of my Form IV students pledging to "Stomp Out Malaria!"

PARADE!
For the day’s main educational activities, students were split into four equal-sized groups which rotated through four teacher-run stations. By the end of the day, every student went to a 25 minute session that:

  • used a game (sharks-and-minnows, meet bed nets-and-mosquitoes) to detail the importance of bed net use and the impact self-protection has on community malaria risk
Form I students learning about bed nets
  • featured a bed net demonstration and discussion on the lifecycle of the malaria parasite
Form I loved the bed net demonstration
  • recorded statistics of student malaria prevention compliance and emphasized the active role students must take to prevent malaria
  • used student input to dispel local misconceptions about malaria.

The main points of each session were recorded on poster papers that will be hung in the students’ classrooms so the day’s primary educational points can persist.
At the end of the day, I presented the school with three new footballs in thanks for their support for and hard work in malaria education. After the students went home for lunch and Friday prayers (Ijuma being the Muslim holy day), we celebrated a successful day by having a soccer match with our newly acquired balls. Somewhere, the Good Year Blimp expounded Ice Cube's virility.

Malaria Haikubaliki
The day was, in my opinion, a great success; however, I can’t help but be honest. Will this World Malaria Day event truly affect my community’s behavior? I have my doubts. Sometimes, I fear that education is much less effective at changing behavior than many of us would care to recognize and the necessary convenience that leads to behavior change will be borne by still far-off development. Then again, my doubts aren’t strong enough to stop me from trying. Also, minimal results probably speak more to my and other responsible parties’ failure to properly educate than the virtues of effective education.
What I’m trying to convey is that, like all of my experiences in Peace Corps, World Malaria Day left me feeling hopeful, just a little uncertain, and incredibly thankful. While I believe my students and colleagues got something out of the day’s activities, I know I benefitted tremendously from this experience and can’t stress how thankful I am to everyone who helped make this event happen: the community of Kiuta Secondary School, John Hopkins University’s malaria program, my Aunt Barbara and Uncle Tony (thanks for the soccer balls!), Peace Corps Tanzania, and the PCVs that created and provided the materials I used in designing my program (thanks for the hook up Deirdre!).

For more information on Peace Corps' Malaria initiative, check out this blurb: "Stomping Out Malaria in Africa is a Peace Corps initiative that uses strategic partnerships, targeted training of Volunteers and intelligent use of information technology to support the local malaria prevention efforts of over 3,000 Volunteers in sub-Saharan Africa. For more information go to stompoutmalaria.org and follow Stomp activities at http://www.facebook.com/StompOutMalaria."
“How will you Stomp Out Malaria in 2014?”











Tuesday, April 15, 2014

Rainy Season

Rainy season in Kiuta is an interesting thing. When I first arrived in September, which is the middle of the dry season, the first word I would use to describe my site is "red." All the plants were dead and everything was covered with a rust-red dust; if you opened the window of the Japanese Kindergarten bus you were taking down Mtwara's ever-present dirt roads, you would not only step off the bus feeling like you spent the last four hours in a blender but you would also acquire the pallor of a bad spray-on tan, courtesy of the dust.
But now, the Monsoon Rains are here and they are awesome in the original sense of the word; they put you in your place. The muddy red roads have become overhung by the vibrant green, encroaching bush and my nights are filled with the soothing sound of torrential downpours hitting my sheet metal roof; with time, a sound I once associated with The End of Days has become cozy. My mornings are still in the low nineties and sunny but by around four or five pm, conveniently after school ends, the thunder starts and the heavens open.
Everything becomes more isolated with the rains as well. Suddenly, the 12 km to town you used to travel in the back of a flatbed truck become an insurmountable boundary. Bajajis that used to take you to town now refuse to make the drive out to your school. The rainy season makes me appreciate my neighbors. Nothing is more comforting then, when I'm stuck in the village on a rainy afternoon, crouching around a wood fire while my bibi tells me about the good old days of carrying gargantuan clay jugs of water on her head and my babu tells me about his legendary days as the village's best bao (a game kind of like mankala that is always played by young men in the shade of a tree by the main road) player; after I asked "why don't you play anymore," he looked at the space just above my right shoulder, paused, and yelled "because now I'm blind!" We all thought this was exceedingly funny.
Sure the afternoons spent staring at the mouldy ceiling boards while rats dance in your crawl space and the rain sounds like two Boeings taking off in your head can make me question why I'm here. But, when I know the price of being content is getting a little wet and smelling like a campfire, there's really no excuse for getting too down.

Thursday, March 20, 2014

Pictures, Again

Pictures from December to now!

 My mango wine. Damn good.
 The Home Office
 Thug Lyfe. Also the students who helped me build my garden.
 Zanzibar from the ferry.
 Local Watermelon
 Roasting coffee. $3.13 for a kilo of coffee. Can't beat it!
 Science Club victors! (and me)
 What a peanut plant looks like (from the struggling garden)
Local Cucumber. Brings to mind one word better left unsaid.

Sunday, February 23, 2014

The Love Letter

An American poet once said, “No one’s fated or doomed to love anyone. The accidents happen…” Born two worlds apart and together for only a moment, she must be correct.
It started when you got on the lorry. What first caught my attention was the way you hosted the jembe across your shoulders, cool and coy like David poised with his sling, confident in your body and the implements  that were its natural extension.  I was sitting in the bus stand and, while I couldn’t see your face, I was struck by your back; thick knots of muscle wrapped tight around your neck and shoulders, a thin layer of sweat made the sunlight dance through dark peaks and valleys.
And then your kanga fell. I’ve always doubted the truth of love at first sight; it seemed like something people say after memory has buffed details and re-plaster reality. How can you love someone you don’t know? Aren’t you just fooling yourself into loving what they represent? What does it mean to love an idea? All I know is that the moment you stood bare breasted, unblinking as your young daughter retied your billowing shawl in the back of a departing flatbed, it was love.
So, I’m in love with you, or maybe the idea of you, or maybe the moment you inhabited the canvas on which I painted love. Whatever it was, it was found and lost in a dusty, Tanzanian bus stand.

Forever yours,

A broken fool

Sunday, February 2, 2014

Critter Entry Part II: Meat

As someone who has never before purposefully killed an animal, I always thought taking something’s life would be a profound moment. Hearing bones pop and crack, the gurgle of blood, my first slaughter would be Homeric. Grown men would collapse weeping in the streets of Troy and my inner, primal spirit would be sated by the ferric stench of life-blood and the warm humidity of a quickly fleeing life. With Ares’ demands met, I would walk away with some new insight, perhaps on the tragedy of life and death; something, at least, to make me appear profound at a cocktail party or over drinks. Instead, my experience was fairly underwhelming and gave me a sense of how naturally killing comes to humans. No adrenaline rush, no glorious high: just a dead rat and a poorly chosen stick.
Walking by my Mkuu’s (head of school’s) house one sunny afternoon, I noticed him standing out front holding, what in Tanzania can only properly be called, a child-beating stick or fimbo. Around him, his two sons, also armed with sticks, were unpacking and moving boxes. After exchanging greetings, my Mkuu declared “we are at war,” pointing his stick at a pile of five or six dead rats. In the midst of processing my first pile of bludgeoned rats, I was snapped back to reality by the command, “quick, grab a stick, there’s one more in this box.” Knowing what I know now, in my rushed call-to-arms, I grabbed a fairly impotent stick; lacking the bend that allows a good fimbo to flatten most of its length against the ground and thereby cover more area, my rigid, heavy Excalibur’s point of impact was limited to just the tip (ha!). As the rat was released into the yard and the chase began, we were joined by  Mama Gulam, who rushed out of the house wielding what, in any culture, can only be described as a club.
Rats, I learned, are sprinters. They start fast, engaging in acrobatic acts of evasion and escape in tight quarters, but tire quickly in the open, making easy targets. Diving exhausted from a tree, the rat met its final moments in a bed of leaves, the killing blow offered to an incompetent and frightened man-child: me. My long fantasized moment of triumph sounded exactly the same as the many times, in my ineptitude, I struck only leaves. It was not poetic.
Allow me a brief discussion of animal-human relations in Tanzania. Killing pests is part of the daily routine and people do it with a smile or a shrug. Grandmas are exceptionally skilled at clubbing rats to death and the proudest I’ve ever seen my Mkuu’s son, Gulam, was when he killed a rat with a brick; he then asked if we should give it the de-worming medicine his family gave their chickens. Additionally, pets are not part of the cultural practice in Tanzania; hence, all animals are seen as objects. They are manhandled, killed, and exclusively seen as a means to an end. The transition from animals to food is also much more visible than in America. As in, you see it. Chickens, goats, ducks, and cows patrol the neighborhoods during the day, scrounging for edible garbage thrown outside of homes, only to return at night to be slaughtered and eaten. Children are assigned to kill and dress chickens. Your local butcher shop consists of the still furred hindquarters of cattle suspended from meat hooks, a tree stump, a scale, and a knife; cuts of meat are not a thing here, so your kilo comes is rendered through indiscriminate hacking through bone and flesh. No matter how hard I try, the sound of the butcher’s makes me flinch. Tanzanians don’t.
As an omnivore and American, it’s refreshing to be made aware of the source of meats’ and the requirements of raising livestock; here it’s hard to forget how much work people put into an animal before they put it into themselves. For example, the resources that go into meat production are much more tangible when you observe the amount of water a cow can put away during a drought. In America, we never see our meat being tortured and grown at a freakish pace before we eat it, and we remove any vestige of life- a head, tail, or even bones- from our flesh abstractions. This isn't making any value judgment and, like most things that are kind of fucked up about America, I've come to miss it; say what you want about the proper treatment of animals and conscious eating, because I know you will, but a person only needs to see a disembodied goat head being hand-washed in a plastic bucket or a rooster being decapitated with a too-dull knife only a finite number of times before asking, “can a robot do that inhumanely?”
Sorry for my discursion, now back to m’stories. This final episode involves myself and a mouse. For reasons to numerous and too petty to get into, this mouse had become my white whale. It had evaded my broom one too many times and, instead of taking my leg, it was pooping all over my kitchen and chewing the lids off of my oil jugs. After drinking its fill, based on the position of the bottles and level of oil in the morning, I’m certain it hopped in and did victory laps. Finally, as my visiting friend Deirdre and I were enjoying chocolate cake and ginger tea in my courtyard, she saw the mouse run into my shower (which, in my house is a concrete floored room with a hole). Grabbing my stick and flinging open the door, I fell upon the mouse. For a brief period, I became Ahab, Samson, Death, and old-testament God and that pitiful mouse was an amalgamation of the mask, the philistines, life, and Sodom. Full of rage, I struck that mouse down, shouting obscenities in what, knowing myself, could only have been a very high-pitched and unmanly voice. Presented with the killing blow, I brought the stick down and, in contrast with the din of my broomstick hitting concrete floor, produced an organic thud, not unlike the sound of someone getting struck with a baseball.

So there Deirdre and I were, stuck with the task of awkwardly rolling the limp mouse’s corpse out of my courtyard. Watching its ragdoll body tumble and flop over the uneven pavement, I couldn't help but see the moue in two lights. In one, tinted by my rage and prideful victory, it was Hektor, shamefully being dragged behind my chariot, an empty vessel paying the price for combat and life’s passion for killing. But, in the other, shaded by sadness, it was the innocent and natural Petrokolis, reminding us of the regret in every death and the cost of every life taken.